So anyway, I've got Mapnik working and I'm starting to play with setting up contour data (and wow, that needs serious amounts of disk space!)
One thing that's bugging me though, is how to get OpenLayers to use degrees for the permalink? OSM itself seems to do it, but my code (and the OSM cycle map) don't... I tried swiping the "new OpenLayers.Map()" usage from OSM but it's still not happening...